Le Guide de l'Espresso: Parmigiano Reggiano Dop
Type, production notes:
Fat cheese; cow's or mixed milk, whole, raw or pasteurized; lamb rennet
or veal; pressed, fermented, crucia or semi-cooked, semi-hard pasta; semi-mature or
seasoned.
Taste-olfactory synthesis:
Intense and persistent aroma, with a fragrant and delicate recognition. Very tasty, though
the fullness and delicacy of flavor that is characteristic of it.
Perhaps the best-known Italian cheese in the world, also due to the countless attempts
of imitation. Even mentioned in Boccaccio's Decameron, from the 13th century, since the Middle Ages
characterized dairy production between Emilia and Lombardy, favored by the influences
cultural and technological developments coming from Northern Europe following the fall of the Empire
Roman. Today it is produced all year round in the provinces of Modena, Reggio Emilia and Parma, and in
part of the provinces of Bologna and Mantua, both in the mountains and in the plains and using
also native breeds such as the Vacca Bianca Modenese, the Bruna or the Rossa Reggiana. Second
centuries-old processing, the raw milk from the evening milking is skimmed into basins
low and wide due to the spontaneous emergence of the fat, then mixed with whole milk
of the morning milking, inside bell-shaped copper boilers. After inoculation with
whey starter, the milk is added with natural calf rennet powder. There
curd undergoes a breaking with the thorn to the size of a grain of millet and comes
cooked to 54-55°. After the dough settles to the bottom and rests, it is cut in two
pieces and is removed with a linen cloth. In each shape, from the minimum weight of 30 kg they come
apply the casein plaques bearing a unique identification code; afterwards
the branding bands feature the classic information-bearing dots
such as the dairy serial number, the year and month of production. Finally, yes
carries out the salting in large brine tanks for 24 days. The minimum seasoning for
be marketed and 12 months, then it moves on to 24 and 36 months. To be branded
Parmesan must pass the "expertisation" phase, i.e. a series of tests
necessary to guarantee the PDO: they consist of beating the cheeses with a hammer,
in the puncture with a pin for the olfactory test and in the opening of a chosen shape
randomly.